Four magnificent mountains
Aspen Mountain, referred to as Ajax by the locals, looms up front and centre from the town. The gondola and seven chairlifts service 76 trails, all for intermediates and advanced skiers and boarders. Highlights are the runs around Ajax Express and Ruthie’s, with the run down Copper, which leads down to the Silver Gondola, delivering gobsmacking scenery over the town. See how many of the 27 plus shrines you can find tucked away on the mountain, to people such as Jerry Garcia, John Denver and Marilyn Monroe. Have lunch at the Sun Deck and at the end of the day, settle in for drinks and truffle chips at The Little Nell’s Ajax Tavern.
Buttermilk, just five minutes from town on the free shuttle, is perfect to ease yourself into your ski holiday, with the majority of runs for beginners and intermediates. The mostly groomed runs are super smooth, and for terrain park hounds, the two parks, including a fabulous one down the Teaser run, give excellent thrill value. The trails down Tiehack are more challenging, while there are some fun runs off Summit Express. Buttermilk is home for the X Games, which bring the world’s best to Aspen, along with the crowds.
Aspen Highlands is a serious mountain for seriously good skiers with ‘The Bowl’ heaven for those who are willing to hike up it. With 122 trails accessed by five lifts, there is ample room to play. Spread your wings on the runs off Exhibition chair then branch out to Cloud Nine chair, which has a spread of blue runs off it. Go up Loge chair and you are committed to a raft of advanced runs – double black diamond - or the trek up the narrow neck to the Highlands Bowl. Thunder also leads to a phalanx of blacks and double blacks.
Snowmass has more terrain than the other three mountains put together, so plan to spend more than one day exploring it. Better still, stay over as Snowmass has plenty of excellent ski-in, ski-out accommodation. This is skiing nirvana with 94 trails, 21 chairlifts and access to whatever your heart desires - cruisers, glades, steeps, terrain parks and a halfpipe. Head up the Village Express gondola then explore the terrain around Alpine Springs, Sheer Bliss, and the Big Burn, before thoroughly challenging yourself on the advanced runs, which are mostly off the Cirque and High Alpine. Stop for lunch at Sam’s Smokehouse, and when your legs can’t carry you anymore, relax into the evening at the New Belgian Ranger Station, which has a great vibe and happy hour from 3-6pm.
Four of the best … dining experiences
Matsuhisa is part of Nobu Matsuhisa’s empire and is one of Aspen’s top restaurants. Book ahead for the restaurant downstairs or enjoy the more casual upstairs lounge, and be blown away by the exquisite seafood and sushi on offer. The restaurant is also known for its saké, brewed exclusively for the Nobu group by Hokusetsu Saké Brewery in Japan. Who knew there were so many different types of saké?
L’Hostaria exudes that happy feeling of dining with friends, with the interior welcoming and homely. Chef Tiziano Gortan’s culinary career began at the age of 13 in a little family restaurant near Udine. By 19 he was working in a three-Michelin star restaurant in Milan. Tiziano opened L’Hostaria in 1996 with designer Italian chairs, terracotta vases, Tuscan antiques, soft lighting and stucco walls. He takes great pride in his traditional style of cooking, and it shows in each and every bite.
Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro is an experience like no other. Located on the slopes of Aspen Highlands, this cosy European-style cabin is extremely popular for lunch thanks to its fondue, raclette, hearty schnitzel, black truffle gnocchi to name just a few. Then there are the views of the incredibly picturesque Maroon Bells and surrounding peaks. This is a lunch like no other – don’t plan on skiing afterwards. On Thursday nights you can book a snowcat dinner to the Bistro – magic.
Eight K at the Viceroy Snowmass serves innovative comfort food with southern flair, thanks to Executive Chef Will Nolan. The glamorous restaurant has a glittering display kitchen at its heart as well as a stunning 25-metre-long glass bar. Make sure you leave room for sticky toffee pudding – it’s to die for.
Four of the best … experiences
Snowshoeing tours are a great way to get off the trails and learn a thing or three about the area. The tours are run at Snowmass and Aspen Mountain by the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies, and really are informative and interesting. The views from Aspen Mountain are exquisite and just admiring them gives you a chance to get your breath back. ACES also do a snowshoe tour to the historic ghost town of Ashcroft with lunch at the picturesque Pine Creek Cookhouse.
Après ski is almost as important as the skiing itself and you will need a few days to try the best places to see and be seen. Don’t miss the J-Bar at the Hotel Jerome, which has a colourful western history and a celebrity list that would impress any paparazzi. Bunker down at the bar and try the signature Aspen Crud, or sit at a table and tuck into a J-Bar burger. The Sky Hotel’s 39 Degrees base is always jumping and has a good array of dishes, cocktails and drinks. At Snowmass, Wildwood’s sports bar is great for letting the hair down.
Ullr Nights, held every Friday from late December until the end of March, are popular with families but don’t let them have all the fun. Take the Gondola up to Elk Camp Meadows and try snowbiking, while kids have a blast tubing, ice skating, sledding or skiing. After you have mastered the bike, have dinner and boogie to the live band.
First Tracks is good anywhere, but even more so in Aspen. You get to head up the Silver Queen Gondola before the mountain opens, and follow an instructor down tracks that are pristine – not a snowflake out of place. Slide down the smooth corduroy run towards the base and take in the wonderful views over this town that in many ways paved the way for a luxury ski vacation.
Four of the best … hotels
The Little Nell is the only ski in/ski out hotel in Aspen and is legendary for its service and style. It is ridiculously convenient, sitting at the base of Aspen Mountain with the Silver Queen Gondola just steps away. The ski concierge can organise everything for you, and even give you hot chocolate and fresh-baked cookies when you finish skiing for the day. The rooms and suites are opulent and spacious and the service? Well, it’s perfect.
Hotel Jerome offers a unique blend of contemporary luxury and historic heritage, thanks to a major refurb in 2012. It is elegant, relaxed and luxurious, yet still has that indomitable mountain spirit complemented by an impressive array of western artefacts and artworks.
Viceroy Snowmass is in the heart of the base village, with sophisticated rooms and suites, a year-round pool terrace and superb dining options. Its Ute Indian-inspired spa is just what you want after a day on the slopes, then sit in the elegant bar and enjoy the refined, intimate surroundings.
Westin Snowmass guests can step outside and ski straight down to the Village Express chairlift and up, up and away to the delights of the mountain. It’s just as delightful inside, with a new modern design, an excellent restaurant and bar and it is steps from the shopping and nightlife in Snowmass Mall. •
And i wrote this one too! What is this site?? Why isn't my name on it and why haven't I been approached?
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