For any globetrotting skier seeking soft powdery snow and near-empty, challenging runs with alpine vistas that stretch on, seemingly forever, there is no better place than western Canada. The options are near-endless in the provinces of British Columbia and Alberta, home to some of the world’s most renowned ski resorts, household names such as Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort and The Lake Louise Ski Area. But as well as their big-name resorts, these two picturesque provinces are home to dozens of lesser-known, but equally exhilarating, ski areas.
BRITISH COLUMBIA
Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort: For those who want it all
If there was a blueprint to follow to construct the perfect ski resort, Whistler Blackcomb would be that model. A two-hour drive northwest of Vancouver on the Sea-to-Sky Highway (Highway 99), Whistler Blackcomb is actually two resorts connected by a picturesque pedestrian village – or the world’s loftiest gondola – that’s home to more than 90 restaurants, lounges and bars. Combined, Whistler Blackcomb is North America’s largest ski resort, with three glaciers, 37 lifts, 12 alpine bowls, 200 marked trails and a staggering 3,278 hectares of skiable terrain. Sure, most people come for the snow but at the end of the day, the après options win them over. Slope-side bars with outdoor seating and staggering mountain views host musicians in the afternoons, and there are funky sushi bars, fondue restaurants and late-night martini lounges. And then there are the spas…
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort: For skiers who like it simple
A two-and-a-half-hour drive west of Calgary and 1.5 hours west of Banff on the Trans-Canada Highway, Kicking Horse is the antithesis of Whistler. Don’t expect endless dining and après-ski options here – Kicking Horse is as intimate as they come. But the restaurants that are available certainly turn on the charm. Take Eagle’s Eye Restaurant, for instance, the highest restaurant in Canada. Ride the gondola to 2,347 metres, pull up a chair and enjoy 360-degree views across the valley while you tuck into bison short-rib with blueberry sauce or poached halibut. Other popular hangouts include Heaven’s Door Yurt and the Horse Thief Café. Kicking Horse has earned itself a reputation as one of Canada’s most credible ski mountains – it’s where professional sportspeople come to make turns. The resort is home to some of North America’s best tree runs, and with four interlinked powder bowls at the bottom of the lifts, the possibilities for accessing untracked deep snow are endless.
Fernie Alpine Resort: For history buffs and powder hounds
Located on the southeastern fringe of British Columbia, some 300 kilometres south of Calgary, the town of Fernie was built on the back of a coal mining boom a century ago and its street façade has hardly changed since. Still, this is one classy coal town: brick-and-stone Victorian-style buildings still line beautiful broad avenues. Five kilometres from town, Fernie Alpine Resort is the home of Canada’s best powder snow, all laid out across five bowls – that’s more natural bowls than you’ll find anywhere else in North America. Sitting across 1,013 hectares, Fernie is also one of the continent’s most challenging mountains. When you tire of skiing or boarding, there are plenty of other pursuits on offer; try snowmobiling, sleigh rides or Stargazing Snow-shoe Fondue safaris – night walks followed by luscious chocolate fondue. And when it comes to bedding down, you’ll find everything from simple ski-in, ski-out chalets to five-star hotels with fine-dining restaurants.
Revelstoke Mountain Resort: For adventurous souls
Revelstoke is the kind of town where locals still walk pet pigs down the street and barmen fill you with free shots just because you’re from Australia. It feels like a typical BC town; just another stop on the Canadian Pacific Railway out of Vancouver. But truth be told, Revelstoke has become the next big thing in North American skiing. Investors have pumped more than a billion dollars into this mountain resort since 2008, and there’s more to come. It now boasts the highest lift-serviced vertical rise of any ski resort on the continent and it’s the only place on earth where you can enjoy three ski experiences at one resort: lift-skiing, cat-skiing and sensational heli-skiing at Nelson Lodge. But the best thing about Revelstoke is that it hasn’t succumbed to flashy international chains – this place is still more Canadian than maple syrup.
ALBERTA
The Lake Louise Ski Area: For skiers with stamina
Canada’s largest single ski area, Lake Louise is spread across four mountains in the Banff National Park, offering 1,700 hectares of skiable terrain. Experts will love the mountain but what makes Lake Louise unique is that every chairlift offers skiers a run down that matches their abilities – from green runs to double black diamonds. There are 139 marked trails, with some runs extending for eight kilometres. If that sounds like too much hard work, enjoy a drink at Whitehorn Lodge before skiing down a freshly groomed trail to Sitzmark Lounge, where you’ll be rewarded with buffet-style dinners, dancing and live music. There are also plenty of dining options at the Lodge of Ten Peaks, with wraparound log decks, open log fires, two restaurants and a café. Lake Louise is home to some of the Rockies’ most legendary après-ski bars, such as the Kokanee Kabin and the Whiskeyjack Lodge, popular for their cosy, yet convivial atmosphere. Stay nearby at one of the world’s most famous hotels, The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, or head to Banff – just 60 kilometres east and easily accessed by bus.
Sunshine Village Ski & Snowboard Resort: For those seeking deep snow
Often overshadowed by Lake Louise, Sunshine Village receives about three times more snow than any other ski resort in the Banff region. A 15-minute bus ride from the ski mecca of Banff – home to endless dining, accommodation and entertainment options – Sunshine Village is Canada’s highest ski resort and is also blessed with the country’s longest ski season and best natural snowfall. Located in the middle of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Banff National Park, the resort (accessed on a tri-area lift ticket along with Norquay and Lake Louise) boasts the world’s fastest gondola. Jump on and you’ll be whisked above Sunshine Village’s wide-open bowls to the only slope-side lodging in any national park; Sunshine Mountain Lodge, Banff’s only ski-in, ski-out hotel. There are 107 runs at Sunshine Village including Delirium Drive, offering experienced skiers one of the toughest runs in North America. Make the last run of the day a long, relaxing ski through the pines to the car park far below.
Marmot Basin ski resort: For getting away from it all
A 20-minute drive from the frontier town of Jasper, Marmot Basin is situated in the middle of the largest National Park in the Rocky Mountains. If you’re heading north from Banff, you’ll have to cross through the isolation of the Columbia ice field, the largest ice field south of Alaska. This deep in the Alberta Rockies, there are more wolves, cougars, mountain goats, elk, beavers and bears than people. Needless to say, Marmot Basin is one of North America’s least crowded ski resorts. There are 86 marked trails spread over 678 hectares, and when you’re not skiing, local operators offer snow-shoeing, ice climbing, snowmobiling, dog sledding, heli-hiking and cross-country skiing. When you’re finished playing in the snow, settle back on the resort’s verandah and watch the sun set over thousands of hectares of national park. Or head to Jasper, where you’ll find a good selection of après bars, hotels and restaurants.
Norquay: Family friendly
The first ski resort built in the Canadian Rockies, Norquay has a reputation as Canada’s most affordable resort. It’s the only ski resort in Canada offering an hourly skiing rate. What’s more, it’s just five minutes’ drive from one of the world’s most famous ski towns, so you can make the most of Norquay’s slopes and then settle down in Banff and enjoy world-class après-ski dining and entertainment options. The former home of World Cup events, Mount Norquay boasts its fair share of black diamond runs yet still caters to families with kid-friendly runs. Young children can ski gentle beginner slopes or try tubing, while teenagers can access some of Canada’s most picturesque terrain parks. Mt. Norquay’s Cascade Lodge offers the best sunset views in Banff; you can also snowshoe the Stoney Squaw Summit Trail for equally impressive vistas.•
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