If the vast expanse of Canada, dotted as it is with cosmopolitan cities, pristine national parks, mountain ranges and world-renowned ski resorts, was explored some other way than by rail – as a scenic selfdrive trip, say, or using the country’s convenient domestic airline network – it would have the makings of a terrific holiday. That it can be enjoyed from the comfort of luxury trains that are temperature-controlled, decked out with mod cons and replete with fine-dining facilities, makes Canada one of the world’s most superb destinations.
The tradition of rail travel in Canada extends back to the era of steam. Hardy frontier people laid tracks through the unforgiving Rockies, and early steam trains were crammed with fossickers eager to unearth gold on their hopeful journeys into the heartland.
Today, there’s been a glorious rail renaissance: swanky, modern trains connect the nation’s most popular tourist destinations, passing through scenery that inspires the clicks of millions of camera shutters. In between sips of fine local wine and bites of tasty Canadian salmon, modern-day rail passengers can check their emails with complimentary highspeed WiFi and play board games in the lounge car. Sleeper cabins are decked out with comfy flatbeds and fluffy doonas, stashed away during the day to make way for reclining seats so you can sit back comfortably and watch the scenery unfold through large picture windows.
Two of the largest touring companies offering journeys by rail around Canada are Rocky Mountaineer and VIA Rail. Rocky Mountaineer’s season runs from April to October, covering many favourite scenic destinations across Canada during trips of varying lengths. Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2010, Rocky Mountaineer has an enviable reputation within Canada and around the world. Recently, in fact, it was named the world’s top train experience by the Society of American Travel Writers.
VIA Rail is part of the fabric of travel within Canada. Operating year-round on many appealing intercity and cross-country routes, this rail-tour company is well established and highly respected for its service and safety standards and the warmth of its on-board crew. Honoured with just about every major tourism award there is, VIA Rail is favoured by Aussie and Kiwi travellers for its broad coverage of Canada’s destinations and excellent on-board amenities.
Ultimately, the Canadian rail journey you choose will depend on a number of considerations: your budget, the time you have available for travel and the destinations you most want to see. Here is a snapshot of the best Canada has to offer.
Vancouver
For a relatively small city (about 600,000 residents at last count), Vancouver must be doing something right: it consistently ranks as one of the most liveable cities in the world and has done so for more than a decade. You’ll find all the buzz of a bigger centre here: a thriving food and wine scene, galleries and museums hosting international touring exhibitions, excellent shopping, and spas worth their mineral salts.
Vancouver has also become the third-largest centre of film production in North America, after Los Angeles and New York City, so don’t be surprised if you see starlets browsing the chi-chi boutiques along trendy pedestrian boulevard Robson Street, where foot traffic exceeds 80,000 shoppers on busy weekends. Take in the view from 42 levels above street level at Cloud 9, the revolving rooftop restaurant and lounge at the Empire Landmark Hotel: with spectacular 360-degree vistas of Vancouver, it has been wowing visitors since 1973.
Whistler
The Rocky Mountaineer’s sister train, the Whistler Mountaineer, links the city of Vancouver with story-book-pretty resort town Whistler, proud hosts of the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games. This spectacular three-hour trip through the renowned Sea to Sky Corridor takes you along Howe Sound and into the Coast Mountains. The journey features some of the most beautiful scenery in North America and is especially lovely in winter, when snow-capped peaks transform the surrounding landscape into a pristine wonderland.
Whistler is popular with Aussie skiers and snowboarders, who appreciate the village atmosphere, world-class runs and lively après-ski scene, full of award-winning restaurants and bars.
Rocky Mountains
If there’s one crown jewel to trump all the scenic jewels in Canada, it is the Rocky Mountains. This breathtaking mountain range stretches almost 5,000 kilometres across Canada and the United States, covering just about every kind of terrain. To come close enough to be able to ooh and ahh at the area’s soaring peaks, clean rivers, wide open fields and abundant wildlife should surely be on everyone’s Bucket List. The Rocky Mountaineer train offers a two-day, all-daylight rail journey through the Canadian Rockies. The bubble-dome helming the rooftop carriage affords spectacular 360-degree views of the soaring peaks and valleys of this unique landscape. Many visitors have been so taken with the journey that they have taken it three more times so as to marvel at the differences in the landscape from season to season.
Jasper
The charming alpine town of Jasper vibe: snow everywhere; elks wandering down the main street; surrounded by beautiful lakes and ringed by towering mountains. Its permanent population of about 5,000 swells sixfold in summer, when warmer weather turns the mountains around town into a natural playground for hikers, horse-riders and abseilers. Jasper has a quaint small-town atmosphere and lots of cosy chalets and B&Bs, at which the proprietor, who brings you homemade shortbread along with tales of bear- and wolf-spotting, could well be a sixth-generation Jasper local.
Lake Louise
Ever felt the urge to walk on water? Lake Louise may be calling your name. During winter, the frozen expanse of the lake – which is around 2.5 kilometres long and has a glacier at one end and towering peaks on either side – has to be one of the most spectacular outdoor ice-skating rinks in the world. Those who choose to amble, Jesus-style, or hit around a puck in a pick-up ice-hockey game are equally welcome.
When the Canadian Pacific Railway was established across Canada, the area around Lake Louise was developed as a series of hill resorts, as a stopover for Europeans taking the slow route to the exotic Orient. The average length of stay then was about six weeks and Swiss mountain guides were imported to shepherd visitors up and down the hiking trails. Descendants of these Swiss guides work on the mountains today.
Banff
Ah, beautiful Banff. Seemingly created as the fairytale home of a fairytale princess, Banff is a gorgeous little town in a valley surrounded by soaring mountains. More than two dozen of these mountains stand more than 3,000 metres above sea level, making this one of the most popular hiking and outdoor-sport destinations in the world. A visit to Banff National Park, Canada’s first national park, is recommended at any time of the year, as is a dip in the healing waters of the sulphuric hot springs. A ride to the top of Sulphur Mountain in the Banff Gondola is worth it for the sweeping views over the city, way below. Spend the night – if you dare – at The Fairmont Banff Springs, a historic hotel at which reported ghost sightings are almost as frequent as hot breakfasts.
Toronto
Toronto’s claim to fame as Canada’s most populous city and its economic capital is backed by a cosmopolitan sophistication. Here, along with more than 2.5 million residents, you’ll find several of Canada’s most cutting-edge fashion designers and globally lauded chefs. As one of the principal destinations for immigrants to Canada from all parts of the globe, it’s home to sushi-train restaurants, African drumming bars and Turkish hammams – often, all on the same street.
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